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OGI MegaScope Computerized Proportions Analysis:
Would you purchase a new car without
knowing whether it had a four, six or eight cylinder engine? Of
course not! Then
why would you consider buying a diamond without knowing how well it has
been cut? After all, most of the visual properties of a diamond are
controlled by the Crown and Pavilion angles...
Assuming
that a diamond has been cut to "ideal proportions" simply because
it has the "right" table and total depth measurements is foolish, but unfortunately this is what many consumers are
being asked to do by disreputable dealers who rely on diamond grading reports
that fail to provide complete
information.
In order to determine the proportions rating of a diamond, you must know
the specific measurements for the following factors:
-
Table Diameter
-
Crown Angle
-
Pavilion Angle
-
Girdle Thickness
-
Culet Size
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However, most of the diamond grading
reports relied on by diamond buying consumers only contain the following
measurements:
-
Table Diameter
-
Total Depth
-
Girdle Thickness
-
Culet Size
|
Thus the average measurements for the
Crown & Pavilion angles are undetermined and there is no way of
actually knowing the proportions rating for the diamond... The importance of knowing
the measurements for these two factors is that together they control about
98% of the visual properties of a diamond...
The easiest and most accurate way to determine
the specifics of the missing factors (Crown & Pavilion angle) is to obtain an OGI
or Sarin
computerized proportions analysis. Both the Sarin and the OGI
machines offer the same basic information and level of accuracy, the choice to use one machine over
the other is really a matter of personal preference, similar to how you
may choose to
drink Coke instead of Pepsi.
In the past, we relied on a Sarin machine, but
switched to an OGI Mega Scope due to service related issues that were left
unresolved by Sarin.
The unit we use in our office cost a little more than $45K and provides us
with better optics and a higher level of accuracy that is not available
from the smaller, less expensive units used by many
diamond retailers. In addition, the larger machine enables us
to determine the proportions rating for round brilliant cut diamonds up to thirteen carats and
a larger
range of fancy shape diamonds.
In the past, the results of the Sarin and OGI computerized proportions
analysis were printed on an Avery type label
that looked like this:

However significantly more detailed reports are currently available as
will be discussed in detail below... We will explain how to decipher
the information provided on the label however because we attach this label
to the scan of the diamond grading reports we post on-line in addition to
making the full version of the proportions analysis available...
The top line on the label format provides a reference to the lab report of the diamond that
was measured followed by the AGS proportions rating for the diamond which
in this case is "AGS 0" followed by the carat weight of the stone as
estimated mathematically by the program based upon the measurements
obtained by the machine. It is important to note that the reference
to the AGS proportions rating does not mean that the AGS Laboratory (AGSL)
actually graded the diamond has having AGS Ideal 0 proportions, but rather
that the machine was equipped with the software parameters to compare the
proportions of the diamond to the scale created by the AGSL. Thus
the initials "AGS" which appear after the lab report number do not
indicate that the proportions were determined by the AGS Laboratory, but
rather that we used the AGS proportions option on the OGI machine which
compare the measured proportions of the diamond to the parameters set
forth by the AGS Laboratory to determine the proportions rating.
In addition, we would like to state that the OGI and Sarin machines are
not capable of grading the polish, symmetry, clarity or color of
diamonds, the machines only grade the proportions...
In this case, the second line which begins with "diam" indicates that the
average outside diameter of the diamond is 6.56 mm which is the average of
the minimum (6.54 mm) and maximum (6.57 mm) measurements and then states
the depth measurement which in this case is 3.97 mm.
The third line "crown" provides the average crown angle measurement (34.5
degrees) which is the average crown angle measurement based upon the eight
individual measurements of the kite shape bezel main facets. The
percentage measurement (14.7%) is not actually measured by the Sarin or
OGI machines, but rather is estimated mathematically, thus the angle
measurements determined by the machine are more accurate because they were
actually measured.
The fourth line "pavil" provides the average pavilion angle measurement
(40.8 degrees) which is the average pavilion angle measurement based upon
the eight individual measurements of the triangular lower girdle facets.
The percentage measurement (43.0%) is not actually measured by the Sarin
or OGI machines, but rather is estimated mathematically, thus the angle
measurements determined by the machine are more accurate because they were
actually measured.
The "table" measurement is provided in two formats, millimeter diameter
and a percentage of the total diameter, the millimeter diameter can be
misleading so focus on the percentage... Here again, the table
diameter % is based upon an average of the measurements.
Culet % refers to the size of the culet which is facet that makes up the
bottom point of the diamond. We actually ignore this measurement on
the Sarin and OGI results because they seem to vary greatly and seem to be
the one factor for which the results never make sense... Neither
Sarin or OGI have been able to provide us with what we consider to be a
reasonable explanation for this apparent phenomena, so we just go by what
the labs determined the culet size to be...
The "girdle" measurement provides the average girdle thickness of the
diamond, depending on the format selected when the diamond is measured the
average can be based on the high points or valleys of the girdle and thus
here again, we prefer to rely on the measurements provided by the lab that
graded the diamond for consistency.
When the Sarin and OGI machines were first introduced on the market, the
label which provided this information was "state-of-the-art" and thus was
an excellent resource for consumers. However recent technological
advances and improvements to the software packages used by the Sarin and
OGI machines have made it possible to provide consumers with more
information than used to be available. This is what the new OGI
MegaScope Reports look like:

The primary difference between this report and the results
provided on the label shown previously on this page is the amount of
information that is made available to the consumer. With such
detailed information now being available, we don't know why anybody would
accept the basic label format anymore... Not only are the averages
shown on the new report format, but the high and low measurements that
resulted in those averages are also provided in the upper left section of
the report pictured here:

In this case, the average of 34.5 degrees for the crown
angle is based on a low of 34.3 degrees and a high of 34.7 degrees, but it
could just as well have been based on a low of 34.0 degrees and a high of
41.0 degrees... Obviously, the tighter the range between the high
and low measurements the better...
The proportions chart located right beneath this section provides the
parameters for the proportions scale developed by the AGS Laboratory:

Please note however that the chart above uses the pavilion
depth percent as a determining factor of the proportions rating and that
during the first quarter of 2003 the AGS eliminated the percent variables from
their proportions scale because of a realization that the angle
measurements are more accurate than the estimated percentages...
The range for the pavilion angle measurement for the AGS Ideal 0
proportions grade ranges from 40.15 to 41.20 degrees. While both
Sarin and OGI have been made aware of the change of parameters for the AGS
zero ideal cut rating, the program software has not been updated yet to
reflect the change and thus some diamonds that would score "zero" on the
current AGS proportions scale are reflecting lower scores...

The "Average Graph" which appears in the upper right corner
of the report is simply a side profile of the diamond based upon the
proportions of the diamond. Starting at the top, the 6.56 mm
indicates the average outside diameter for this particular diamond.
The 56% listed just below that represents the table diameter and the 3.67
mm indicates the millimeter diameter of the table. The crown angle
of 34.5 degrees is indicated in red along the left edge of the crown and
the pavilion angle of 40.8 degrees is indicated in red along the left edge
of the pavilion. The percent measurements for the crown (14.7%) and
the pavilion (43.0%) are indicated along the right side of the stone, but
be aware that the angle measurements marked in red are more accurate
because those measurements are actually measured by the machine and the
percent measurements are estimated... The total depth of 60.6% is
indicated in the lower left corner of the graph and the culet size is
indicated at the bottom.

The Crown & Pavilion Graph merely indicates the ratio of
alignment between the center of the table facet to the center of the culet
located at the bottom of the stone. Think of this as simply drawing
a line through the stone from the center of the table facet to the center
of the culet... The reality is that we have never seen a diamond
that didn't have a culet that was indicated as being "off center" but we
prefer to see the measurement below 0.3%

The "Girdle Profile" is exactly what it seems to be, it is
a representation of the consistency of how well the girdle edge of the
diamond has been formed. The minimum and maximum girdle measurements
are indicated along with a graph showing the pattern of the girdle edge.
In this case, the girdle has been cut very nicely and does not appear to
be excessively wavy or erratic in pattern. The following is a picture of a
girdle edge which is not acceptable and should be avoided:

The "Top Down Report" (pictured below) provides excellent insight into the
consistency of the cut, but can be a source of confusion for consumers who
do not take a moment to understand how to correctly decipher the
information provided.

To begin deciphering the information provided in this
report we want to explain the numbers indicated on the graph, starting at
the top...
The green number "7" indicated in the twelve o'clock position merely
identifies the facet number, the kite shape facet in the twelve o'clock
position is actually the 7th Bezel Main facet...
The red numbers "34.3" that appear below that represent the Crown Angle
measurement for the 7th Bezel Main facet...
The blue numbers "14.4" that appear below the Crown Angle measurement
represent the Crown Height Percent for the 7th Bezel Main facet, and so
on... As stated previously, the angle measurements are more accurate
than the percent measurements because the OGI and Sarin machines actually
measure the Crown and Pavilion angles but estimate the percent readings...
The most common mistake consumers make is to attempt to
decipher the information provided on the Top Down report by comparing the
measurements provided clockwise and judge the consistency of the diamonds'
cut based on that point of view. Thus using the example pictured
above, they would incorrectly judge the consistency of the diamonds' cut
by comparing the Crown Angle measurement of Bezel Main facet 7 to the
measurement for Bezel Main facet 8 to that of Bezel Main facet 1 and so
on...
The correct way to decipher the information however is actually to add the
measurements of each opposing facet together and evaluate the consistency
based on the sum of those measurements. In other words, you should
not determine how well this diamond has been cut by comparing the Crown
Angle measurements starting at the twelve o'clock position and reading
around in a clockwise circle, but rather by the sum of the averages as
follows:
Facet 7 (34.3 degrees) plus Facet 3 (34.5 degrees) = 68.8
Facet 8 (34.5 degrees) plus Facet 4 (34.3 degrees) = 68.8
Facet 1 (34.7 degrees) plus Facet 5 (34.4 degrees) = 69.1
Facet 2 (34.5 degrees) plus Facet 6 (34.4 degrees) = 68.9
Thus the average consistency for the Crown Angle is within
three one hundredth's of a degree... Obviously the tighter the
range, the better the consistency of cut... Deciphering the
information for the Pavilion Angle is done the same way, based upon the sum
of the opposing facets... The pavilion angle measurements are
indicated in red with the percent measurements indicated in blue...
However, the location of Facet 7 appears at the bottom of the graph because you are
looking at the bottom view of the stone, thus if you were to rotate the
position of the bottom view graph so
that it faced bottom the two halves would align top to bottom...
There are many other report formats available for each diamond listed on
our Private Reserve although we do not generally publish that information
because most of it consists of single page reports which indicate the same
information provided on the full page report... For instance, there
is a full page version of the Crown & Pavilion Graph pictured above which
simply consists of a larger version of the graphic and does not provide
any additional information... If you happen to be a glutton for
punishment and feel the need to sift through the individual pages which
are condensed into the information provided on the full page report, we'll
be happy to send them to you upon request...

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Copyright © 1996 - 2003 Treasures by R.J.
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is a registered trademark of the American Gem Society (702) 255-6500
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